Claire Porter

Great Divide

South Pass City, WY

Overview 0 mi Overview
Segment 1 215 mi Banff, AB
Segment 2 277 mi Sparwood, BC
Segment 3 443 mi Roosville, MT
Segment 4 624 mi Seeley Lake, MT
Segment 5 828 mi Polaris, MT
Segment 6 1040 mi Flagg Ranch, WY
Segment 7 1178 mi South Pass City, WY
Segment 8 1363 mi Middlewood Hill, NY
Segment 9 1458 mi Silverthorne, CO
Segment 10 1588 mi Salida, CO
Segment 11 1712 mi Platoro, CO
Segment 12 1890 mi Cuba, NM
Segment 13 2051 mi Pie Town, NM
Segment 14 2169 mi Silver City, NM
Getting ready for the ride! 0 mi PRE-RIDE
01 Days before departure 0 mi Home
Banff, Canada 232 mi Eureka, Mt
Eureka, MT 259 mi Helena, MT
Helena, MT 183 mi Island Park, ID
Island Park, ID 98 mi Jackson, Wyoming
Jackson, Wyoming 185 mi Atlantic City, Wyoming
Atlantic City 349 mi Frisco, CO
Frisco, CO 165 mi Del Norte, CO
Del Norte, CO 307 mi Grants, NM
Grants, NM 240 mi Silver City, NM
Silver City, NM 136 mi Mexico/US Border

South Pass City, WY Leaving the Grand Tetons, I was immediately faced with a climb up Togowtee Pass that I had been dreading ever since I realized it was part of the Great Divide route. Last year, when I rode cross country by myself from California to Maine, I crossed over Togowtee Pass and let's just say it was the most "memorable" pass from my trip of over 4,000 miles. I remember struggling up the pass for hours, and thinking I had reached the summit when I saw the sign for the "Togowtee Mountain Lodge", when in fact I still had 9 more miles to the top. When I finally crested the pass, the sun had set and I was so exhausted I was nearly in tears. So when I looked at the map for the Great Divide and saw that unforgettable name, I shuddered. This time around, at least I knew what I was in for. And as it turned out, I was in for a pleasant surprise.

The night before climbing Togowtee, I camped in the Tetons with friends from high school who were biking cross country and our paths intersected in the Tetons. We stayed up late singing to ukulele and mandolin music and I felt warmed not only from the campfire, but from the presence of friends and hearing their stories from the road. They had come over Togowtee the day before, and assured me that I would be fine. I knew from my own experience that it was a tough pass, and felt nervous despite their encouragement.

The next morning, I hit the pass. This time around, the first half of the climbing was on dirt. The road was steep, but the absence of cars and RVs zooming past and several beaver sightings made the climb much more enjoyable. I couldn't believe it when I arrived at the Lodge- I had 9 miles to go and felt great. I bought a juice and a beer, one for immediate consumption and one as a celebratory beverage to be popped open at the top. About an hour later, I snapped a picture in front of the sign declaring, "CONTINENTAL DIVIDE, ELV 9,568", and I didn't bother to stop the tear that rolled down my cheek. I don't know if the dirt climb was easier than the paved climb, I was in better shape this year than last year, or I simply psyched myself out over the climb, but this time around, Togowtee felt more like a friend than an enemy.

After Togowtee came Union Pass, which was a whole different can of worms. Union Pass was brutal- or I should specify, the long steep hills that climbed to the sky, only to send me straight down to a creek bed, only to climb up again, to be sent down again, were relentless and exhausting. When I finally began the climb that was the actual pass, I was weary and hardly amused when I came across a herd of cows that were being shepherded up the hill by a group of wranglers. As I passed the cows, I consoled myself that at least I was going faster than something. The descent was windy and not very steep, and I hid from the rain in my tent that evening.

Riding on from Passtopia (Togowtee and Union Pass back-to-back), I faced a new challenge: headwinds. I quickly discovered that I prefer climbing to headwinds, as the ride into Pinedale felt like I was battling a faceless opponent that I couldn't see the end of, and offered no descent. When I reached Pinedale, I stumbled into the public library to use a computer and the restroom, and was surprised by my own reflection. Dust caked my eyebrows, and I had a decent sunglasses tanline. I washed my face, changed out of bike shorts, and enjoyed using a computer in what may be the finest public library I have ever stepped inside of- gorgeous pine rafters, no time limit on the computers, and fast internet. I spent time in the library charging my devices, as my solar panel was not as trusty as my sturdy Blackburn bags and I now relied on outlets for power after the solar panel decided to cease functioning. I ate dinner at the Rock Rabbit, lured in by the hippie signage out front. It ended up not being a very hippie esta
blishment, but the waitress informed me that the campground in town was closed and suggested I camp up the road at the rodeo ground. I did just that, and as I lay in my sleeping bag, my thoughts drifted to the upcoming Great Divide Basin. I instinctively reached for a drink of water, thinking of the upcoming waterless miles. I fell asleep, and pedaled south the next morning, my next destination: the Great Divide Basin.